Before you begin, have a pen and paper or a notes app ready. Write the time, the device affected and what you did. Patterns that are invisible in the moment become obvious on paper after two or three incidents.
01Scope: is it everything, or one device?
ObserveCheck two or three devices at the same moment, ideally in different rooms.
Possible causesEverything failing together points upstream — the provider’s line, the modem or the router. One device failing alone points to that device, its location or its compatibility.
TestIf everything is down, check your provider’s service status page and the modem’s indicator lights before touching Wi-Fi settings.
02Line: does a cable to the router work?
ObservePlug a laptop directly into the router with an Ethernet cable and run a speed test.
Possible causesSlow or failing on a cable means Wi-Fi is not the problem: it is the line, the modem or the router’s internet connection. Normal speed on cable shifts suspicion to the wireless side.
TestRestart the modem first, wait two minutes, then the router. If cable speeds stay low across several days, contact your provider with your written results.
03Signal: what is the reading at the problem spot?
ObserveMeasure RSSI in dBm where the problem happens, and note which band the device uses.
Possible causesWeaker than about −70 dBm suggests a coverage gap. A strong reading with poor performance points to interference or the device itself.
TestMove the device two metres towards the router. If performance jumps, follow the room survey.
04Interference: is the channel crowded?
ObserveNote whether problems cluster at certain times, such as evenings when neighbours are online.
Possible causesOn 2.4 GHz, only channels 1, 6 and 11 do not overlap; a router on channel 3 collides with both neighbours. On 5 GHz, DFS channels (Dynamic Frequency Selection) must be vacated if radar is detected, causing brief disconnections.
TestSet 2.4 GHz to 20 MHz width on channel 1, 6 or 11. If drops coincide with DFS events in the router log, choose a non-DFS 5 GHz channel.
05Addresses: does the device have a valid IP and working DNS?
ObserveLook at the device’s IP address in its network settings.
Possible causesAn address starting 169.254 means DHCP (the service that hands out addresses) failed. Connected-but-no-internet often means DNS (the system that turns names into addresses) is failing.
TestPing the router’s address, then a public address such as 1.1.1.1, then a name like a familiar website. Where the chain breaks is where the fault lives.
06Device: is the gadget itself the weak link?
ObserveCheck whether the device drops after periods of inactivity.
Possible causesAggressive power saving, outdated firmware, or a stored network profile that no longer matches your security settings.
TestUpdate firmware, disable Wi-Fi power saving on laptops, and “forget” then rejoin the network. Check security mode compatibility.
07Log: change one thing, record the result
ObserveNote the date, the change and the outcome after at least a day of use.
Why it mattersIntermittent faults hide. A log separates the fix from coincidence and gives your provider or a technician real evidence.
TemplateDate · symptom · device · room · signal (dBm) · change made · result next day.
When to stop and call for help
If step 2 shows the problem on a direct cable, your provider is the right contact; describe your test results rather than the feeling of “slow internet”. If every step passes and the problem remains, record two more incidents and describe the puzzle to us — we read every message and use common puzzles to improve these guides.